
Visiting Bethlehem was an answer to a prayer I didn't know I had. The drive from Jerusalem into Bethlehem is kind of scary. Our bus had to switch tour guides, leaving our Israeli guide almost a mile before the border. The Palestinian guide that joined us was a bit more gruff, more militant, and really cute. The wall is only a little above my head in height, but is capped with double barbed wire and covered in graffiti. Our Israeli guide explained that there had been several roadside bombings of tourist buses before the wall went up. The Palestinians want the wall taken down, and even have Lebanon, their alli, attack Israel from the north whenever they feel like it; but Israel has known more peace since that wall went up than ever before, so it stays.
The Palestinian guide said little about the wall, but commented much on the energy within it. He explained that the large percentage of Muslims in the area did not blend well with the Israeli's and that they (the Israeli's) didn't want peace, only to rule. It's funny to hear basically the same being said of either side by either side. If only they realized how similar they are in their stand.
The energy within the walls, to me, spoke highly of fear. I felt uncomfortable for the first time during my journey and felt myself watching over my shoulder. Children played differently, sidewalks told stories more quietly, store fronts lingered more hesitantly. It could be my gender, my religion or my nationality speaking; but I can tell you at that moment I just wanted to turn back.
As we made our way to the little church at the center of the worlds' controversy, I had to laugh at its' politeness. The Church of the Nativity stands somewhat behind the main road, and just looks so unassuming. Passing by, not a single person would guess this church holds within it (well beneath it to be specific) the wonder that is Our Messiah.
As I walked up, I felt leary of every person I saw. I memorized faces, heights, details (a defensive mechanism I've always had to make me feel somewhat in control of an uncontrollable situation). To say I felt unsafe is an understatement. Others have told me they felt nothing of the sort, but I have always been a very sensitive type to energy. This energy unsettled me in a way that can still make me shiver.
The moment I walked in the church, I felt a shift. The church is divided into three parts = to the left is the Armenian Apostolic, the center is Greek Orthodox and the right is Roman Catholic. As we walked our way toward the entrance to the Grotto, we passed through the Catholic portion. There I saw a depiction of Mary holding Jesus as well as numerous candles. Our group happened to be ahead of all the others, so we were first in. I stayed toward the back of the group, wanting to be able to take a little time once I got down the steps.

Walking down, my heart began to race. I felt excited and curious and a feeling of awe come over me that I didn't know how to rationalize. When I stepped down the very few steps, I saw to my right where Jesus was born. I just stared for the longest time. I felt so many things at once: How did I get there? Why was I there? How could this place be real?

To my left was where the manger had been and as I took my time walking around and taking it in, I was able to block out the Italian group behind us and just let myself BE there. I felt a presence in that room stronger than any I've ever felt. I felt a peace within those small walls that made me cry. And I felt so strongly, for the first time ever that I wanted every member of my family there with me at that moment.
All of my years of Catechism and private school came back to me standing there. I could see it all happening, like every story in my head finally came together as the uncut version.
As I made my way back up and through the Armenian side, we were brought to a landing that surrounds a hollowed out floor, exposing the old flooring of that site. Until that day, I was unaware that the Inn who had no room for them and thus put them with the animals, was a cave. It was a sequence of caves. This makes sense, given the dramatic heat of the area and the non-existent air conditioning back then; but somehow that had never been properly explained to me. It occurred to me just how little everyone was back then; the heights of the ceiling made each of us crouch down.


I stayed in a bit of a haze as we came around and into St. Catherine's Roman Catholic Church. This church is where we were led to the actual Inn. A simple wall separates the Inn from where Jesus was born. There are several chapels there. The Chapel of St. Jerome, where the Bishop of Bethlehem translated the Old Testament into Latin; the Chapel of the Innocents, which is the final resting place for the baby boys that King Herod had killed as he attempted to stop Jesus from growing into a man; and the Chapel of St. Joseph where the Angel appeared commanding them to flee to Egypt. The feeling in the Inn was noticably different. There was still a feeling of peace but it was more tangible, more difficult, more human.
Walking out of the Church, I felt the air thicken again, the tension build, the nervousness I had felt outside return. There is something sacred about that place, something you can feel. I left that Church feeling more different than I have ever felt. When I got back to the ship and began to journal, I remember knowing that every place I had been, every journey I had been sent on was to get me there.
It sounds cliche to say I had a religious experience; but I had a religious experience that day. In the middle of journaling, I remember having an overwhelming need to read the Bible, something I had attempted many years previous and could never make sense of. Cruise ships always contain an entire cupboard of Bibles, so I made my way to the ship library, where I proceeded to read the entire book of Matthew. Not only did I not stop until I was done (and it didn't take me very long), but I understood every bit of it. I could see it all, feel it all, make sense of it all. Even now, months later, I can pick up the Bible and read any section without need of a translation or explanation of it from someone; I just get it.
I truly hope every person reading this gets to visit this site one day. Reading about it, seeing photos, even watching a video cannot do justice to the overwhelming feeling of peace you feel in that tiny little Grotto wherein one crowded night over two thousand years ago, a perfect baby boy was born.